February 27, 2017

Doll Days! Modern Jumper Sew Along Day 3

Welcome back for the next post in the American Girl Doll Clothes pattern from Doll Days! -Modern Jumper Sew Along Day 3

We now have the trickier steps to do: Sew the inset and add the lining to the bodice. Just take the steps slowly: each step at a time and do each one carefully. I think you’ll find they’re not that difficult.

Remember to have your copy of Doll Days! also handy for additional help and specific instructions not provided in this online sew along.

1. Align the inset piece to one side pieces, right sides together and sew.

This is how I get my waist seams to match up. It’s important to line these waist seams up as best as you can. If the seams are really off, it could become a negative distraction in your design.

I start by placing a pin at the waist seam on the sewn edge and use it at as a guide when pinning the second side to the inset.

When I pin the second bodice on, I pin along the 1/4″ seam allowance.

Then I open it up and check my placement. If it looks good, then I pin the normal way (perpendicular to the seam line).

Remove the first set of pins and sew it in place

2. Finish the seam allowances and press them according to the book’s directions. If you have a lot of trims and the seam allowances are not staying flat, then use wonder tape to hold them down.

3. Finish the raw edges of the bottom edge of the lining.

4. Pin and sew the lining to the bodice. A key factor with the achieving sharp corners at the front square neck feature and achieving smooth curves is the clipping. My grandma always told us to clip it like mad. And she always made the most amazing sweetheart necklines.

Corners: cut diagonally to the pivot point of the corner. As close to, but not cutting the stitches.

Then trim away the extra along the sides leading up to the corner.

Clipping the curves: Clip every 1/8″ or more. And get close to the stitching, but again be careful not to cut the stitches!

5. After you trim diagonally at the corners and clipped curves, etc., the challenge you face is to turn those straps to the right side. Not so tricky, you just need a wooden knitting needle. (I have one in my sewing room just for this type of chore and I don’t even know how to knit really).

Get it started by using your fingers to pull a little out.

Use a blunt end of the wooden knitting needle to push the strap right side out. Wiggle and work it gently. As soon as it loosens up it will turn super easily and quickly.