Phone Charging Station Tutorial

I designed this project for a class I am teaching–teen sewing. These make great gifts for  both boys and girls, teenagers and adults!

I made a couple more examples to give to my teenagers. I’m tired of seeing their phones and devices on the ground next to an outlet while charging. Though the pattern is for teens, I think it makes a great gift for teens and young adults, a gift they can actually use and may even like. So I thought I would make a tutorial for how I made it.

You can make it plain or embellished. Supplies and instructions are given for both. The OSU Beaver fabric one is wide enough for 2 devices, but you will need to make the opening big enough for both plugs to be used at the same time.  [I need to make another with that option.]

What you’ll need:

A heavy duty machine needle is needed, like jeans/denim size 14 or 16, depending on the fabric you are using.

Wider version (OSU fabric):

2 pieces of solid color fabric for base 8″ wide X 9 1/2″ tall

a piece of Timtex interfacing (or other very stiff craft interfacing) 6 3/4″ wide X 8 1/2″ tall

2 pieces of focus fabric for pocket 10″ wide X 5 1/2″ tall

1 piece of interfacing, medium to heavy weight, 8 3/4″ X 5″

 Narrower version (Linen and Lace)

2 pieces of solid color fabric for base 6 1/2″ wide X 9 1/2″ tall

a piece of Timtex interfacing (or other very stiff craft interfacing) 5 1/4″ wide X 8 1/2″ tall

2 pieces of floral fabric for pocket 8″ wide X 5″ Tall (If wanting a plain top without bias binding, then cut 2 pieces 8″ wide X 5 1/2″ tall)

1 piece of interfacing, medium to heavy weight interfacing, 6 3/4″ x 5″

8 inches of bias tape binding (I made my own, but double fold extra wide from the store will work, too)

6 1/2 inches of crochet lace

Let’s make it!

Step 1

If adding lace to the base, add it now. Sew a piece of flat lace to the top of one of the base pieces, to the right side of the fabric. Place the top of the lace 1/2″ down from the top edge of the base fabric piece.

Step 2

Place the base pieces right sides together, matching edges. Sew the sides and bottom edges together using 1/2″ seam allowance. Do not sew the top edge.

Clip corners.

Turn right side out. poke out the corners and press with an iron.

Step 3

Make sure the Timtex will be the correct size. Measure your base now that it is right side out — the Timtex piece needs to be just slightly narrower (about 1/4″) than the base to slide in easily and it needs to be at least 1/2″ shorter.

Measure how big you want your opening to be. Check your charging plug to make sure the opening is at least that big. If you are making a wider version, make sure your hole is big enough for both charging cord plugs.

Draw the opening. The top of your opening should be 1 1/4″ down from the top to be stable and hold its shape. Make sure your opening is centered as well. For my Linen and Lace example, I made my opening 2 1/2″ wide and 1″ tall.

It’s important to make sure it is straight as well. I used my straight edge to keep the top line parallel to the top edge of the timtex. And that my side lines were making 90° angles with the top and bottom lines.

How to cut the hole: Bend the TimTex in half and make a small cut to get started. Cut around on the lines.

Step 4

Insert Timtex through the opening in the top. Carefully slide it all the way down. Once in place, fold the raw edges of the opening to the inside and press with an iron. Sew across the opening to close it.

Step 5

Take a fabric marker  and draw a line where the opening in the Timtex is. Run the pen along the edge of the opening in the Timtex.

Sew long straight stitches on the markings. I like to do 2 rows of stitching. This helps the fabric stay put once you’ve cut the fabric open.

In the same way you cut the Timtex, cut the fabric opening. Be carful to only cut fabric not the Timtex.

Sew satin stitches (tight zigzag stitches used in appliqué) around the opening to keep it from unraveling. Trim any stray fibers from opening–not threads, but fraying fabric fibers.

I like to sew around the remaining 3 sides.

Set the base to the side.

 Step 6

Place the pocket pieces right sides together, keeping the edges even. If you are using directional fabric, make sure to pay attention to the top and bottom of these pieces.

Sew the 2 sides and bottom edges with a 1/2″ seam allowance.  Trim corners.

Turn it right side out and press. Slide the piece of interfacing into the pocket pieces.

Step 7

If doing a plain pocket without bias binding, then simple fold the raw edges to the inside and press. Sew across the top edge to close the opening.

If using a bias binding, then open the bias binding up and  fold one of the short edges to the wrong side and press.

Check the pocket piece and fold the other side so they match widths and press with an iron. Trim to 1/2 allowance if needed. After folding and pressing other edge to the inside, refold the length of the bias binding.

Place the pocket piece inside the bias tape, so the top raw edge of the pocket is sandwiched in the middle of the bias tape. Sew it in place.

Maybe add lace?

Step 8

Place the pocket on top of the base and center it. Fold over the sides of the pocket, so they are even with the sides of the base. Mark with a pin and press them with an iron.

Sew across the folds, very close to their edges.

Step 9

Sew just the sides of the pocket to the sides of the base. Leave the bottom unsewn.

Step 10

After the sides are sewn together, fold the bottom to make the “gussets.”   You will have little folds or pleats at the sides. Sew the bottom keeping the pocket folded on top of itself at the side. Sew very slowly, even using the handwheel to make stitches if necessary. This area is very thick.

Your charging station is all done! No more phones on the floor next to the outlet.Yay!

This a  great stash buster as well! I think my next one will have some patchwork along the pocket or base. I hope you enjoy this tutorial and give it a try!