Did you know? Tips!
I’ve been sewing almost my whole life. And I have surrounded myself with sewers all my life. I picked up so much from others. I have not taken very many classes, just learned from others at home, read books, etc. I also had a great sewing education when I worked in a local sewing machine/fabric shop in my 20’s.
Here are things I’ve picked up along my way….
Cutting
When cutting fabric, you should never “snap” the scissors closed. This damages the fibers in the fabric. Long, smooth cuts, and don’t close the scissors all the way.
When cutting a pattern out, it’s easier to be accurate to have the pattern on the left (if right handed) and the part you are cutting away on the right. This prevents any “blind spots” that the scissors might make of the cutting line. This is especially true when cutting curves like the armscye.
I heard this at a sewing expo class from an industry professional:
When cutting out fabric: lay down a piece of butcher paper or packing paper first. Then place your fabric on top and pin the 2 together. Then pin you pattern pieces to both the fabric and paper. Cut through the paper as you cut your fabric pieces. This helps you to cut more accurately. —I know, I know–“but then I will be cutting paper with my fabric scissors.” Not as big of a deal as one might be worried about. Just get them sharpened more often, or only do this when you are working on something very special. I have several pairs of scissors and one is dedicated to doing this method. I usually do it when cutting satin or costume/slippery or fussy fabric.
Interfacing
When doing stabilizer for a pattern piece (like a collar): Fuse the interfacing to the fabric, then pin (or use pattern weights) and cut out the pattern piece.
When using interfacing (sew-on kind), did you know you should “pre-wash” or shrink it first? Soak and let it air dry before using.
You will get better results with sew-on interfacing if you use spray adhesive. For bag making, I don’t like using fusible stabilizers. Instead I like to spray baste the sew-in kind. I like the end results much better.
Collars and linings
Trim the edge of the collar, lining, or facing slightly at the top edge. About 1/8″ or less should work. When it’s turned to the right side, match up the lower edges together and the facing/lining will automatically be pulled to the wrong side or inside of the garment. This works on pockets, too.
For perfect curves and princess seams, clip the dickens out of it (according to my grandma-and she made the most beautiful princess necklines). Using a short stitch length also helps a lot.
General sewing
When sewing small things and narrow seam allowance, hold and gently pull on the threads slightly as you get going. This will help the feed dogs do their thing. It stops the fabric from getting stuck or shoved into the needle hole of the throat plate at the beginning of your seam.
When sewing doll clothes, don’t back stitch very much. 2 back stitches is plenty. This helps to reduce the bulk–same concept is thought for piecework in quilting.
Don’t skip the pressing. Just don’t.
When sewing knits, you can starch the fabric to help it stop curling up on the edges. I like Mary Ellen’s Best Press for this.
If using a serger to finish the edges of a project, edges that will show when wearing, please use the narrow hem or rolled hem settings–not the regular overcast setting. Simply overcasting doesn’t look as nice or as professional. Just saying.
You can gather with your serger. Pull on the needle threads to adjust the gathers, then spread and distribute them evenly.
Wonder tape can help and has so many uses that it really ought to have it’s own post. Some helpful uses, use instead of pins, especially when sewing knits and zippers. Helps line us patterns and stripes in the fabric when trying to match them up.
What tips have you learned along your sewing journey?