The Burgundy Coat
Each year my daughter looks forward to winter, because it means a new winter coat, and another opportunity for her to design her own. This year is no exception. The coat has been talked about for months now, but she has no idea I have started. She had said back in September that she would like red this year. Wow, a bold color indeed. As I tried to talk her into a more neutral color, she explained that it’s a burgundy color she must have. She got a hold of my Ultimate 3-in-1 Color Tool and studied color. I’m very glad she did, because her picture of red did not match the red or burgundy I imagined sewing up.
In secret, the search began for the exact burgundy (maroon may better describe her color choice). She loves wool coats, and when we settled for a blend or a different fabric, we were both sorely disappointed. So wool it had to be and I did not want to risk buying it online this time. The feel, hand, and color are so key in coats–and can be so personal. Remembering the book “The Purple Coat,” by Amy Hest, I respected her choice. I also wanted the coat to be a happy childhood memory. Something she may one day reminisce about. Or maybe that’s my vanity talking.
The search for the correct shade of burgundy took me miles away, but well worth the trip. The color is spot on, and the wool is the softest wool melton. I’m using Jalie 2680. So far the project is going smoothly. Sometimes I wonder how much of our sewing has to do with the tools we use. Without the proper tools, sewing can be a frustrating, exhausting experience. Sometimes not having the right tools can sabotage a sewing project, no matter the sewist’s skill level, no matter the effort.
For this project, a walking foot, sometimes called an even feed presser foot, is vital. The melton wool has nap and substance. The best practice a sewist can employ is sewing a test seam before sewing a stitch on her project. Starting with a fresh, new needle is another key element to sewing. After putting in a new needle, a needle carefully chosen for the fabric, sew a few seams with scrap fabric. This will illustrate what the fabric is going to do. Melton slips and shifts, despite pinning it in place. The walking foot keeps the top layer from moving under the presser foot differently than the lower layer. It moves them together, evenly.
Still contemplating the lining–or rather whether to line it or not. I was not able to find a matching floral flannel –(yes, I know. I should use a slippery fabric to line at least the sleeves, but she insists on flannel. It is her coat and as long as she likes it, then why does it matter?) or one that isn’t a cutesy little girl print. Could not find any burgundy flannel to match at all. I found a navy blue flannel, which I think she will like and sweet buttons to match, but I hate to cover up that cozy wool. The wrong side of the fabric is luxurious, much softer than flannel. The only draw back for me is the exposed seams. Jalie did not draft this coat pattern with a lining, nor did she talk about possible seam finishes. Lots of top stitching, which I love, however, I hate the unfinished look of the inside. Flat felled seams would perhaps be bulky and uncomfortable. My daughter has been known to completely reject garments that don’t feel right.
I keep sewing, debating and contemplating this decision. Having already drafted and cut out the lining, I think I will decide at the very last possible moment.
Yesterday, I ignored the pattern’s pocket instructions. The Jalie instructions just didn’t seem right to me. The Ottobre coat from a few years back was almost identical in style and detail, so I did the Ottobre method. She loved that coat *sigh*
Today, I will be constructing bound buttonholes. After said buttonholes are completed, I will hopefully have made a decision about whether or not to line the coat.
Feel free to make your opinion known 🙂