Scalloped Skirt Adaptation

Guest Post by Vicki Good

Sharing ideas is what the sewing community is all about. I am thrilled that Vicki, my friend and talented doll clothier, accepted my invitation to share with my readers how she created her adaptation of the Scallop Skirt pattern from Doll Days! Sew an Everyday Wardrobe for 18″ Dolls that she had entered into the Doll Days Skirt Design Challenge a little while back- a skirt that won her a sweet fabric bundle.

Vicki is a skilled sewist and sews under her business name, Hummingbird Sewing & Design. You can see more of her wonderful sewing creations on her facebook page: Dolls Riding Cloths. Be sure to read Vicki’s full bio after her awesome tutorial.

Take it away, Vicki!

Scalloped Skirt Adaptation Tutorial

The picture on the right shows the original scalloped skirt and the one on the left is my adaptation. I liked the scallops but wanted to try it with a new twist, so I decided to reverse the lining and use a contrasting fabric.

First, I choose two fabrics I think go together well and cut them out as you would for the regular scalloped skirt.

Instead of pinning the right sides together, you pin the right side of the scallop to the wrong side of the skirt. You do this so that when you flip the scallop piece to the front after sewing the right side will be facing outward.

Pin the top of the scallop lining to stabilize it then mark where the ¼” point will be on each scallop. I use a small gauge and a pencil to make a light dot.  You can also mark your ¼” seam if it makes it easier to sew the rest of the scallop.

Then pin it securely to keep it from shifting. I may have overdone it, but it works for me.

I use a ¼” Piecing Foot to sew my seams on doll cloths, so I know that I am always at ¼” because it’s a ¼” at the edge on either side. Sew a ¼” seam along the bottom of the scallop only.

Clip inside the corners and trim the edges to make it less bulky and easier to turn.

Turn scallops to the right side and iron the edges out. I use the pressing tip offered in Doll Days to help bring out a smooth edge. Finish pressing the rest of the skirt.

Now the fun part how to decorate the unfinished edge!

You can use narrow bias tape.

Rick Rack is another option. Your imagination is the limit.

You can also simply turn it under and use a straight or decorative stitch to hold it down.

If you try ribbon, make sure it will bend to the curve without causing gathers. You could try steam and pressing it in a curve.

Wide bias tape is shown in the sample for this tutorial.

I carefully pin the bias tape to the skirt, to keep the bias tape firmly in place while sewing it and covering completely the raw edge of the lining piece.

Sew the trim in place.

Next pin the waistband on and sew in place.

Finish the back closure according to the book instructions. My doll has a very thick waist, so I used the minimum seam allowance I could get away with and used thin Velcro©.

You then can add more decorations, like the little caterpillar button I added for interest. You could also add buttons, bows, or whatever you think of.

Reversing the lining, using a different print and contrasting waistband, gives a different look. Let your imagination go!

Vicki has been sewing since she was 10 years old, starting out with doll clothing and graduating to cloths for herself and sister, Sue. She has sewn show clothing for the western riding circuit and owns an embroidery business. In 2011, Vicki graduated from Central Michigan University with a Bachelor of Science degree in Fashion​ Merchandising and Design: Fashion Design.  Vicki is currently working towards her Master of Science in Apparel Product Development & Merchandising Technology at CMU. Her sewing has now come full circle to sewing for dolls once more.

Vicki and her husband having raised their 7 daughters and now lives in the northern part of the lower Peninsula of Michigan, on a beautiful small lake with their 2 cats.  She is working on a line of accessories for 18’’ doll horses and a clothing line for dolls.

Hummingbird Sewing & Design

https://www.facebook.com/dollsridingcloths/